Baking another go of it - Film - Arts - Evening Standard
       

Baking another go of it

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Adrienne Shelly's film is about Jenna, a waitress (Keri Russell) at Joe's Diner who finds herself pregnant after a loveless sexual foray with her abusive husband (Jeremy Sisto). "I don't need no baby," she says. "I just want to make pies."

You would think that, even in America, she might consider an abortion. But instead she goes through with the pregnancy and falls in love with the young doctor (Nathan Fillion) looking after her. Or, at least, he falls in love with her. She just wants to find happiness in baking.

The movie is a strange concoction, half-comedy, half-drama, with a lot of the attributes of a sit-com. It is made all the stranger when you remember that Shelly, an actress, writer and director, was savagely murdered in her apartment before the editing was completed. Somehow you can't get that fact out of your mind while watching the film.

Waitress, they say, will do for pie-making what Sideways did for pinot noir. But though Russell is very good, sustaining a mask of fresh innocence throughout, and bearing her various crosses with a courage born of na'vetÈ, there's something irredeemably lightweight about the film that makes it more of a divertissement than a full-blown drama.

Its best moments come when Jenna has to serve Joe (Andy Griffith) the curmudgeonly proprietor of the diner, who always wants two glasses of water, no main course and a large helping of one of her pies. The passages between these two, and between Jenna and her long-suffering waitress friends (Cheryl Hines and Shelly herself) lend a reality to the film nothing else quite matches.

As for the pies themselves, produced in all the colours of a rainbow - they look disgustingly plastic.

Waitress
Cert: 12A

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