Less than the dim sum of its parts

Nothing quite as exciting occurred, though it had curiosity value. The one-hour show took place in Chinatown’s New World Restaurant before a small, mostly Western audience who seemed fairly baffled throughout.

While we ate dim-sum, the action went on in the middle of the floor, complete with Buddhist-style silks and gongs. Authentic Peking Opera performers had combined with Western actors and musicians from the Not So Loud Theatre Company. Joe Townsend’s score, a reworking of Chinese folk melodies, had eclectic charm. He has worked with Laurie Anderson and at the National Theatre, so knows how to make music serve the moment. The director was Paddy Cunneen of Cheek By Jowl, a company well used to the physicality and clowning of the kind displayed here.

Chinese Opera had its golden period in the early years of the last century, ebbing with the outbreak of war in 1937 and the Cultural Revolution of the Sixties and Seventies, then flowing again thereafter. Its immortal folk stories have been used both to underline and subvert the ideologies of the day. If at times this felt endless rather than timeless, it was all done with great seriousness and the prawn Dim Sum was excellent.

Until 13 April (0870 033 2600).

China In London: Slippery Mountain (Mulian Rescues His Mother)
New World Restaurant
Gerrard Place, W1D 5PA