Slinky, shimmering dresses with names such as Crème de Menthe, Butterfly Gown and Pink Lollipop are the centrepiece of this tribute to The Supremes. But this exhibition is about much more than mere frocks. Visitors enter to cacophonous street sounds in simulated Sixties Detroit: revving engines identify the Motor City, and the distinctive piping young voices of the world’s most successful group after The Beatles represent Berry Gordy’s Tamla Motown label.

The show’s intelligent, ergonomic layout is divided into cabinets holding dresses and memorabilia (sparkling shoes and ear-rings, bouffant wigs, record sleeves) and extends into the story of Motown and the parallel history of the American Civil Rights Movement, of which The Supremes were figureheads.

Satin and chiffon delights, bejewelled carapaces embellished with fringes and ruffles, were created by Hollywood’s “Sultan of Sequins” Bob Mackie, and include the beaded Pop Art number, Carousel Green Swirls. It shimmers on the Ed Sullivan show to the tune of Where Did Our Love Go? playing adjacent to footage of Martin Luther King’s “I have a dream” speech.

Such thoughtful juxtapositions lend a gravitas absent from last year’s Kylie costumes blockbuster. King’s speeches and history-making marches are linked seamlessly — as in real time — with the records and dresses. The iconic Rosa Parks, in the bus seat she refused to abandon, contrasts with the Vegas look but relates closely to the elegant trio walking behind King’s coffin.

Such serious themes are wrapped invitingly around the costumes and songs, to document black artists’ first move to centre-stage. The show closes, appropriately, with Destiny’s Child’s outfits, reminders of their debt to The Supremes. As Oprah Winfrey says: “Coloured people on TV! You never saw anything like it in the Sixties.”

Until 19 October. Open today, 10am-10pm; Sun-Thurs 10am-5.45pm. Admission £5, free to under-18s 020 7942 2211, www.vam.ac.uk).