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Anchor and Hope weighs in as top gastropub
By Katharine Barney, Evening Standard 03.12.07
No frills: Judges say The Anchor and Hope in Southwark is the epitome of what pub food is about
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The country's finest gastropubs have been named, with London venues dominating the list.
The capital's gastropubs made up 10 of the top 30 venues for pub food in Britain with the number one spot in the survey going to The Anchor and Hope in Southwark for the third year running.
Some of the country's top chefs and food writers, including Raymond Blanc, James Martin, Antony Worrall Thompson and Loyd Grossman, were among the judges.
They described The Anchor and Hope as the "epitome in many eyes of what pub food should be all about".
It serves classic, traditional dishes such as slow-roast lamb shoulder and gratin dauphinoise, as well as more unusual choices including pig's head in vinaigrette and snails, bacon and laver bread on duck-fat toast.
The judges concluded: "This is British food in a very British setting - and The Anchor and Hope's continuing success is an object lesson along the lines of not needing frills to thrill."
The pub has been so successful that the team behind it have opened Great Queen Street, a new brasserie in Covent Garden.
Rob Shaw, co-owner of The Anchor and Hope, said: "We're incredibly proud and the feeling is that bit more every year.
"Also it's good to know we're doing something right and we've still got the energy and the enthusiasm."
Other pubs singled out for praise include The Narrow, part of Gordon Ramsay's empire and his first foray into pub food. Based in Limehouse, it came fourth in the London ratings and eighth nationally.
Ramsay also owns the Devonshire in Chiswick and is due to open the Warrington in Maida Vale next year.
The most established pub on the list is The Eagle in Farringdon Road. It was one of the first self-appointed gastropubs when it opened in 1991. It came third in the London list and was beaten to second place by
The Garrison in Bermondsey Street. The survey is published in the current issue of the Morning Advertiser, the magazine for the licensed trade.
It was based on the views of 400 pub food experts, including operators, chefs, restaurant critics and writers.
TOP 10 IN LONDON
1. The Anchor & Hope, The Cut SE1
Tucked under a council block, it runs a no-booking policy and prides itself on using seasonal ingredients.
2. The Garrison, Bermondsey Street SE1
High position partly because it now serves breakfast, including two eggs any style and cinnamon porridge.
3. The Eagle, Farringdon Road EC1R
Its bifeana or marinated steak sandwiches still receive rave reviews.
4. The Narrow, Narrow Street E14
On the riverside. An awning being built this month will shelter 90 guests.
5. The Greyhound, Battersea High Street
Its bestselling dishes include horseradish mousse and potato flan.
6. The Anglesea Arms, Wingate Rd W6
Mainstay of modern British fare with a list of more than 100 wines.
7. The Gun, Coldharbour E14
On the Thames opposite the O. Arena, Portuguese BBQ in summer is popular.
8. The Pig's Ear, Old Church Street SW3
A menu heavy on game, including partridge and pheasant chipolatas.
9. The Cow, Westbourne Park Road W2
Known for its oysters and unusual fare, such as squirrel and squid burgers.
10.The Rosendale, Rosendale Road SE21
Opened this year. Chefs smoke their own fish and make their own butter.
Reader views (1)
Here's a sample of the latest views published. You can click view all to read all views that readers have sent in.
As far as I'm concerned there is no such thing as a top Gastro pub. They simply don't work. Food is far superior in a restaurant (and cheaper). Likewise beer is sub standard in a restaurant.
If you want a decent meal eat out by all meals but steer clear of these gastro places to avoid disappointment.
- Steve, London
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