The names Tom and Ed Martin probably won’t ring a bell, but if you’re a well-heeled Eastender who likes their grub, chances are you’ve eaten in one of their pubs.

Their gastro-empire already stretches from Clerkenwell (The Hat And Tun) to Docklands (The Gun) and Sloane Square (The Botanist). Now they’ve taken hold of this restored 19th-century Chelsea boozer and are already up for a Time Out eating award. Perhaps that high expectation counts against them, because although we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner, it wasn’t really worth crossing London for.

The interior is all exposed brick, cosy wooden tables and quirky stuffed animals, while the head chef was poached from Guy Ritchie’s Punch Bowl in Mayfair and clearly knows what the punters like.

Main courses are all familiar faves: mushroom risotto, cheeseburger, steak and fat chips. As for starters, a Dorset crab bisque (£6) tasted slightly like hot water, but we had no quibbles with a velvety Dexter beef carpaccio with horseradish dressing (£6.50). Chicken Caesar salad (£11.50) can often be little more than a big plate of lettuce, but here you got a mountain of chicken and crispy pancetta. Welsh lamb rack (£15.50) was less tempting on the eye with its pretentious presentation, but the cutlets were delicious — perhaps that’s why getting only two seemed stingy.

Lightly spiced plum and apple crumble (£5) came with a small jug of custard, while a dark Valrhona chocolate tart (£5) got a ball of more-ish espresso ice cream. It may not be destination dining, but if I were a local I’d embrace The Cadogan with gusto.