Walking up to the majestic exterior of the Warrington Hotel Pub and crossing the mosaic portico is daunting, and inside is much the same.

Acres of new plush crimson carpet, exotic woods, fierce gilt crown mouldings and veined marble columns make one wonder if this is indeed a pub at all. A magnificent Tiffany window sheds calm light on semi-nude art nouveau nymphs frolicking overhead, framed by chubby cherubs. This is a pub for the discerning imbiber.

The thick, engraved drinks menu lists an excellent selection of real ales, draught beers, ciders, bottled beer, wines, spirits and liqueurs. Although recently redone by noted gourmet Gordon Ramsay, his talents are not really visible here. There is a very small menu of bland "bar snacks" on offer at lunchtime only: the good food is evidently reserved for the upstairs restaurant. In fact other patrons were asking where the "real" menu was - they were promptly directed upstairs by the attentive, helpful bar staff.

The Warrington is not the place to put up your feet and watch rugby - it's a destination pub for special occasions when you want excellent drinks in a truly splendid atmosphere.

CLIENTELE: older wealthy locals and businessmen
NEAREST STATION: Warwick Avenue station
PHONE NUMBER: 020 7592 7960
FEATURES: disabled facilities, real ales, function room available, open after 11:00pm, outdoor seating, separate restaurant