We were taken aback when we passed by here and saw signs advertising 'Live Jazz'.

Given that the pub used to shut up shop of an afternoon the fact that it was even open at night - let alone showcasing live music - took us a bit by surprise.

We knew Smithfield's future is far from secure but had this bastion of bloodied butchers been homogenised for the local loft dwellers? Well, if you give it a look early morning you won't see too many changes.

Located in the bowels of the Smithfield Market, the Cock comes across as a comfortable cross between a pub and a greasy spoon, with a snug bar on one side, a pub dining space on the other and a cafe-style area separating them.

The fact that it's underground adds a nefarious edge to your drinking; that it's in Smithfield means you can start on the sauce at a very early hour - although with the new licensing laws, that frisson has now disappeared. Around early afternoon, The Cock used to shut up shop.

That's where the changes begin as now it stays open, there's a hand-over in the kitchen and a more upmarket lunchtime menu offered. Before the area becomes just like any other (there's already a Starbucks and Pizza Express around the corner), take a trip here.

To see it at its best though, grit your teeth, set the alarm clock and visit before 9am. Your vegetarian friends might not approve but this irreplaceable bit of London is worth making the effort to see before it goes.

FOOD REVIEW: Fantastic breakfasts, all the protein you can eat in one go - you won't need to eat for the rest of the day! (We didn't.)

FOOD RATING: 3 FOOD VALUE: 2

NEAREST STATION: Farringdon station

FEATURES: pool table, Sky TV (big and small screens)