The fashion can’t-have must-haves

Jasmine Gardner
21 Sep 2009

You have seen a dress that you like, and you want it. But no, sorry, you can't have it. It may not have hit the shop shelves yet, it may have been online for only 30 seconds, but already, you're too late.

Such is the peril of the “must-have, can't- aves”, the high-end designer items that are so in demand that they have sold out — often before they ever officially went on sale.

Just like the fruit of the mythological Greek king Tantalus that dangled right in front of his face but was always just out of reach, these are the items we desperately want to hold in our hands, (or indeed wear on our arms, legs or feet), but that will always evade us.

This season, it's the Chloë Sevigny Opening Ceremony buckle boots, first worn by Chloë herself, the Preen Line “Tricks” dress (a cheaper version of the Preen Power dress as seen on Gemma Arterton and Gwyneth Paltrow), Alexander Wang's flat boots, the “Coco” studded bag and “Sienna” one-shoulder dress, and anything from the Victoria Beckham AW09 collection.

Stella McCartney perforated thigh-high boots may cost £715, and only look good on legs of supermodel proportions, yet they have vanished from the stores and the manager at the Stella McCartney boutique in Mayfair is highly doubtful that everyone on the 10-person waiting list will get a pair (in fashion terms, that's a long list). Most surprising of all, though, is Chanel's Jade nail polish. The £19 laquer doesn't go on sale until 9 October but thanks to Karl Lagerfield sending his models down the AW09 catwalk with green fingernails, already the waiting list at Selfridges is 100-strong.

According to Anita Barr, director of womenswear at Selfridges, “a must-have piece is something that is representative of the brand”. She names those iconic Jacko-esque Balmain tuxedo and trophy shoulder jackets as a good example for autumn. Yes, they cost £2,000-plus, but some people are lusting for them so strongly that staff at Harvey Nichols have even witnessed customers crying when they get one.

But it's also the fashion magazines and the celebrities that elevate a particular piece to must-have status. “When Madonna recently wore a Balmain dress and Christian Louboutin Supra Fifre boots in her latest music video, we had a flood of calls,” says Harvey Nichols spokesperson Victoria Meeking.

And, because the complex detail and craftsmanship on high-end items means fashion houses supply only a limited number, there often just aren't enough to go around.

“Small luxury design houses like Balmain make their collections in very small quantities,” says Barr. “Limited availability definitely has an effect on the demand for these items, with waiting lists being set up months in advance of delivery dates.”

“It seems the more customers are told they can't immediately own an item and a waiting list is created, the hunger and desire to own the piece increases by the day,” says Meekings. So it's the age-old story. Men, clothes — they're all the same to us, and the ones we want most are the ones that we simply can't have.

The Lust List

Stella McCartney perforated thigh-high boots, £715
As seen on: Stella and Madonna
Can't have: Pairs on re-order are all allocated to waiting list.

Chloe Sevigny Opening Ceremony buckle boots, £375
As seen on: Chloë Sevigny
Can't have: Limited number arriving mid-October for waiting list.

Chanel limited edition Jade nail polish, £19
As seen on: The Chanel AW09 catwalk
Can't have: Arrives 19 October to 100-strong waiting list at Selfridges. No second order.

Alexander McQueen knuckle duster clutch, £780
As seen on: Little Boots
Can't have: Limited number re-ordered will go to waiting list.

Balmain Tux and Trophy Shoulder Jackets from £2,165
As seen on: Rihanna, Beyoncé, Victoria Beckham
Can't have: One left at Selfridges. Won't be re-stocked.