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Now once where the large open bar was is a succession of snug compartments, with tiny interconnecting gates; definitely not for the elderly or infirm. Even more etched glass can be found than before and it seems like the dark wood has been given a needed re-varnish. The cynical would say it was all for the benefit of attracting tourists looking for an olde pubbe experience; after all, they already feel the need to provide beer menus on all the tables, for those who might struggle ordering from the exclusively Sam Smith's range.

Nevertheless, the place looks more cared for and feels considerably more cosy than before. For those who find the whole thing a little too claustrophobic or twee, the large back room is still open plan, with plenty of couches and two open fires and the beer garden has been greatly improved, albeit at the expense of sacrificing the conservatory. In an area where pubs are going the way of the Dodo, this place is a welcome relief, especially as on the Saturday afternoon we visited it wasn't as heaving as other places in the area.

CLIENTELE: locals, tourists, market workers
NEAREST STATION: Notting Hill Gate station
FEATURES: real ales, outdoor seating

Earl of Lonsdale
277-281 Westbourne Grove, W11 2QA