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It's a clever and modern take on the British pub, with friendly service, a decent array of drinks (cocktails a speciality), while the food served, both in the main bar area, and a more meal-orientated back room, surpasses in quality the offerings of many a gastropub.

The lighting is understated, with reddish tones, and there's a wide array of knick knacks all around. The seating is proper seating, and comfortable too.

The soundtrack was eclectic, with everything from Motown to Morricone, Marley to Morcheeba. And the relative discretion in the way Monkey Chews presents itself counts heavily in its favour too, as does its slightly hidden-away location on the boundaries between sleb-ville and ASBO-central.

Regulars seem to love it, and so do we. It's all very impressive.

CLIENTELE: those in the know

FOOD REVIEW: Top oysters, nice steaks, good-quality produce, better than many a gastro-pub (which Monkey Chews, really, isn't at all).

FOOD RATING: 3 FOOD VALUE: 2

NEAREST STATION: Chalk Farm station

Monkeychews
2 Queens Crescent, NW5 4EP