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11 October 2007
A night at Guanabara is one of those nights. On a Tuesday evening, in search of something a bit more exciting than the local pub, my mates and I pitch up at Guanabara in Covent Garden, whose website brags a bona fide Brazilian clubbing experience seven days a week.
As we arrive a super-fit-looking lady sweeps past us sporting a green feathered headdress, a spangly bra and tiny hotpants. I start to think we could be grossly underdressed. I didn't realise going Brazilian would require one of their infamous waxes. But when I see her partner — a guy in matching green feathered trousers and equally impressive headgear — I realise they're the club's official dancers, and breathe a sigh of relief.
Entry prices to the bar vary from free to £10, depending on the day, the event and the time you arrive. Tonight we pay £10 to get in — but most of the money goes to charity. The evening's party, "Favela Feva", is to raise money for a radio station in Rio's slums. Once past the entrance (a little like a sports centre reception) we head straight to the main room.
The place is already buzzing at 7.30pm and the DJ is playing samba-infused dance. The dance floor, circled by two big bars and a load of canteen-style tables, is visible from anywhere in the room so even when you're dispatched to get your round in you still feel part of the action. Even better is that there's more on the menu than crisps and bar snacks.
We get stuck in to a sharing platter of squid, garlic prawns and spicy dip (£18.50), and the first of many killer Caipirinhas (£5.50).
We settle down to watch the capoeira dancers, one of the regular acts at Guanabara, which has live bands and cabaret every night. Based on a traditional Brazilian dance, the energetic martial art-based acrobatics soon get the crowd's attention — that and the fact these boys are revealing the kind of taut, tanned chests seen on Copacabana beach.
Next up it's a fantastic, rowdy percussion band, and then the dancers, who do a demonstration and get everyone to join in, Dirty Dancing-style. People are careering all over the place and clumsily shimmying into each other across the dance floor, but no one cares a bit.
There's a real atmosphere of up-for-it shared fun, which Guanabara's music programmer Isabel Groves says is the club's whole ethos.
Originally from Rio, Isabel is in charge of booking the acts and anyone who plays here must have some connection with the country. Everyone who works here, from the chef to the bar staff, is Brazilian.
"Being an all-Brazilian staff we know how to throw a great party, which is why people come back," she says. "Weekends are always busy, but we get a good crowd for the samba lessons on Mondays, and family Forro dance nights on Sundays are very popular with the Brazilian community — though gringos are welcome, too!"
This all-inclusive atmosphere has paid off.
Since opening in 2004 Guanabara has sold over half a million Caipirinhas and a million bottles of Brahma beer. Late-night happy hours between 10.30pm and 11.30pm, with Caipirinhas at £3, help fuel the fiesta.
There are plenty of groups like us, twentysomething gringos who've come from work, plus South Americans and couples whose moves imply they're samba class regulars.
It's a good mix, with the shared camaraderie of having a go at the bossa nova making for a friendly and lively crowd. It's also a place where it isn't dated to ask someone to dance, which plenty of guys do.
Anita, 21, from east London, has been on the dance floor all night. She came here last week and has brought three friends along with her tonight. "It's different," she says. "No one's judging you on your dancing.
The vibe is just really fun." Tommy, 20, from Camden agrees. "Everyone's drinking and having a good time, but no one wants a punch-up like in some bars."
At 10.30-ish the performers retire and are replaced with DJs who keep the tempo up until 2.30am. By now we're all fiesta-ing on the dance floor.
I am totally confident of my supreme dancing ability — though that may be due to the capirinhas.
At 1.30am we finally call it a night. Of course we've missed the last Tube but who cares? The carnival's in town.
VIDEO: CLICK HERE TO WATCH OUR NIGHT AT GUANABARA
Guanabara, Parker St, corner of Drury Lane, WC2 (020 7242 8600; guanabara.co.uk). Entry prices vary
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