10 Greek Street - review

Aussie-raised chef Cameron Emirali was working most recently at Wapping Food, the restaurant of The Wapping Project arts centre, housed in a former Victorian hydraulic power station.

Manager Luke Wilson has come - by way of a job with Liberty Wines - from The Ambassador in Exmouth Market, which sadly is no more. The new Soho venture of these two chaps replaces what was Adagio pizzeria.

When I visited for lunch (the one meal you can book) in the two days of soft opening it turned out that a "pay what you think" policy was in operation. From a disciple of arch tactician Clive Greenhalgh, owner of The Ambassador, putting customers in an awkward position was an odd gambit. If you offer less than the stated prices it seems chintzy. If you pay more you might later feel like a bit of a sap.

I paid the eminently fair prices that were already listed for cooking that might be described as Modern European but more meaningfully as of the moment (including in the sense of seasonal) and intuitive.

The menu is not obviously divided into first and main courses and, emphasising fluidity, some dishes are served in two sizes. Octopus, caperberries, fennel and chilli, was a meeting of ingredients that quite surprisingly got on famously, the stoic octopus being an accommodating host. Grilled ox tongue, mustard lentils and salsa verde performed a punchy opening act for main course subtlety of a bowl of steamed mussels, squid and saffron at £6 for the smaller size, leaving space for a sensationally good lemon curd and meringue tart in crisp, friable pastry with slices of poached quince alongside.

Fittingly, a leap year gives one more day of the hare season. From March to August they cannot be shot or sold. The saddle of a young creature - the way to tell is that the ears tear more easily - can be roasted quickly then rested, becoming as tender as the classiest beef but more interesting. Here saddle of wild hare was served with kale and polenta. Excellent.

At lunch the next day my friend ordered smoked eel, beetroot and horseradish followed by Gressingham duck breast with red cabbage and pancetta. Of the duck meat with its self-basting layer of fat she said, "This is delicious", repeated "delicious" and then a bit later on enquired, "Did I mention that this is delicious?" I was too busy with my char-grilled Brecon leg of lamb with sprouting broccoli and anchovy to pay much attention. Of the orange posset with rhubarb, she thought the posset a bit runny.

On both visits I spotted in the white-tiled bar area at the back that interacts sociably with the open kitchen sommeliers enjoying Bar Plates priced from £5-£7 and, naturally enough, drinking. Zerren Wilson, formerly sommelier at Zucca on Bermondsey Street, in his Bitten & Written blog has said of the 10 Greek Street wine list, "It bitch-slaps anything else in Soho." He then usefully goes on to recommend and to compare prices.

Pieropan Soave "La Rocca" 2009 at £31 (£56 at The River Café); Mount Difficulty "Roaring Meg" Pinot Gris NZ 2011 £18.50 (£30 at The Providores). More than half the wines are served by the 375ml carafe as well as glass and bottle and there are a few blackboard specials - Clos du Marquis St Julien 1985 was literally a giveaway at £50.

Companionable prices, wines included, are reflected in simple but comfortable enough surroundings seating about 30. I tried to persuade Wilson to abandon the annoying evening no-bookings policy. I hope he does.

* 10 Greek Street 4/5

10 Greek Street, W1 (020 7734 4677). Monday-Saturday, noon-3pm & 5.30-11pm.

A meal for two with wine, about £78 excluding service.