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A Brasserie to bank on
28 September 2006
Remember the all-day buzz and unfussy cuisine of the big Parisian brasseries? Well, that's what you get at Bank, which opens for breakfast, lays on brunch at the weekend, does good-value pre- and post-theatre menus, and has a prix fixe lunch, all underpinned by a popular and busy bar.
And then there's the small matter of à la carte lunch and dinner for several hundred.
Whatever the time of day, the food is impressive, especially considering the large numbers of people that get fed, and if you like things lively you will have a great time.
The menu is constantly changing, so dishes come and go.
Start with something simple - simple to get wrong, that is - a Caesar salad, say, or a well-made foie gras parfait with apple and pear chutney.
Or go for shellfish.
A key role in Bank's history was played by one of London's leading catering fishmongers, so crustacea such as dressed crab with ginger and wasabi dressing should be reliable.
The fish dishes range from roast cod with boulangère potatoes and mussels, to a traditional halibut fish and chips, featuring mushy peas and tartare sauce.
Meat dishes are well-prepared brasserie fare such as braised beef with parsley mash, or confit of duck with amaretti and butternut squash purée.
Puds include an assiette au chocolat, and brioche bread-and-butter pudding.
If you want a taxi after 22.00, go for the cabs arranged by the doorman: despite the continual price hikes, black cabs are still a rarity.
Bank
1 Kingsway (corner of Aldwych), WC2
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