A dim sum lucky dip

I thought it was worth mentioning this small tribute to our most innocuous household pets in reviewing the new Chinese restaurant Goldfish in Hampstead.

In what was previously China Dream - and remains under the same ownership - the doubtlessly lucky goldfish motif is painted large and bright as part of a mural in the front dining room. Falling water also brings good fortune, so there is a waterfall streaming down a slate wall on the right of the door.

The dark wood panelling of previous restaurant incarnations - a strip of bare brick wall remains like evidence of an archaeological dig - still exists in the back room where the bar is situated. Dinky Chinese knick-knacks occupy the shelves.

Head chef Kelvin Chong has come from Cocoon in Regent Street, but he previously worked at the Shangri-La Hotel in Singapore. Lam Ming Wah, the dim sum chef, is said to have been one of the most famous dim sum chefs in Hong Kong. The Malaysian-influenced menu is different to the usual

Chinese list although the descriptions of some of the specialities, such as award-winning Mocha Ribs (deep-fried ribs in a chocolate-and-coffee sauce) and home-made Mayonnaise Chinese Bacon, struck me as not very enticing.

We did like A Nest of Imperial Jewels, diced shellfish and mustard greens in yuzu dressing with more than a hint of ginger served with lettuce leaf wraps. Szehu Opium was a fine soup with minced beef, egg white and truffles in an otherwise clear broth. Wind Shelter Bay Prawn, a dish apparently once prepared on the boats in Causeway Bay in Hong Kong, featured immaculately crisp and crunchy prawns.

Excellent green beans provided the undercarriage for steamed sea bass with minced ginger and spring onions. A sumptuous spicy aubergine, water chestnut and shitake mushroom assembly was described as Sichuan - a culinary influence that is currently all the go. The dessert of creamed-avocado-and-coconut ice cream called Earth Angel was brought unbidden, and I have to say it was not my sort of thing. I appreciated the fresh fruit more.

Service, led by Michael Tran who has worked at ZENW3 next-door, was friendly and solicitous. And just like goldfish, Hampstead residents know the hours of the good-value dim sum brunch buffet (Saturday and Sunday, noon-4pm). Shoals of them evidently swim in at weekends.

Goldfish
Hampstead High Street, London, NW3 1RE