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The reason for visiting is the arrival of chef Ed Wilson, who previously worked for Chris Galvin at Orrery, The Wolseley and Galvin Bistro de Luxe. With that sort of sustained exposure, a lot of Galvin's culinary approach must surely have rubbed off.

Galvin is at the forefront of a revival of sane, sound cooking with roots in the French bourgeois tradition.

Wilson's menu for Sonny's, with items such as mouclade, game terrine, poached halibut with celeriac purée and trompette mushrooms, confit pork belly with Tarbais beans, steak tartare, coq au vin, grilled veal kidney, Vichy carrots and pain perdu, has exactly the correct unmessedabout appeal.

Even indulging in a little skittishness with spices - as in the date-and-almond couscous and harissa served with roast partridge - he stays with Morocco, once a French colony.

My dinner on the eve of a week of comparative abstinence at a health retreat started with wild mushroom tortellini in a cep cream and moved on to Soufflé Suissesse, an extraordinarily rich gathering of eggs, cream and cheese, originally created, I think, at Le Gavroche.

The pasta casings were a bit tough, but the soufflé was delicious, its sumptuousness mitigated by airiness. Curry powder and Pineau de Charentes are what turn moules into mouclade and the result is a positive change from marinières.

From the good value set-price dinner (£17.50/21.50 for two/three courses) pumpkin, Parmesan and chestnut soup was distilled autumn, and bavette steak served rare was as flavourful as that potentially chewy cut usually is.

Simon Hopkinson reduces by half the red wine with flavourings of herbs and vegetables that he adds to chicken for coq au vin. It's actually a tricky dish to pull off, but the kitchen here did a reasonable job.

After sharing a tarte Tatin I geared myself up for a week with no wheat, dairy, red meat, yeast, salt, sugar, caffeine or alcohol. I have to say that, annoyingly, it has put a spring in my step.

Sonny's Food Shop
Church Road, London, SW13 0DQ