A national treasure, the best British cooking

Good call. One of the most frequent requests, especially from foreign visitors, is, 'Where can we get some really English cooking?' Little wonder that the promise of 'olde English fare' is the bait in so many tourist traps.

The cooking at St John, however, is genuine.

It is sometimes old-fashioned and makes inspired use of strange and unfashionable cuts of meat.

Technically the cooking is of a very high standard, while the restaurant itself is completely without frills or design pretensions.

You'll either love it or hate it.

The menu changes every session, but the tone does not, and there's always a dish or two to support the slogan 'nose to tail eating'.

Charcuterie, as you'd imagine, is good: a simple terrine will be dense but not dry - well judged.

Or, for the committed, what about a starter of crispy pig's skin and dandelion? Or celery soup? Main courses may include calf's liver and swede, or oxtail and mash.

Maybe there will be a dish described simply as 'fennel and Berkswell cheese'; perversely, in this den of offal, the veg dishes are a delight.

Puddings are traditional and well executed: custard tart and rhubarb, or a slice of strong Lancashire cheese with an Eccles cake.

Joy of joys, sometimes there is even a seriously good Welsh rarebit.

St John has won shedloads of awards, and booking is a must.

St John serves good food at its most genuine.

St. John
St. John Street, London, EC1M 4AY