A noisy night in Tom's kitchen

The difference here is a Michelin-starred chef in charge who, handily for him, has an identical twin brother, also a chef, who is around to help.

We went to Tom's (Aikens) Kitchen on what turned out to be the first night of service. Apparently a soft opening period had to be abandoned in the rush to get ready.

I later discovered that if I had used toptable website to book, I would have benefited from a 50 per cent reduction.

A gesture of that kind extended to all would make it much easier to forgive chaotic, off-hand service where not only are dishes presented to the person who hasn't ordered them but also to the table which hasn't.

Blackboard specials, casseroles and pies were missing last Friday, but there was still plenty to tempt including pig's ears with caper-and-shallot mayonnaise and seven-hour confit shoulder of lamb that I had spotted on the menu with the press release.

I made the mistake of inviting another restaurant critic to dinner. Naturally, he wanted the pig's ears. I graciously conceded and chose paprika-and-lime squid to start. Both items arrived deep-fried in breadcrumbs - forewarned with the ears - which made them more like bar snacks than first courses.

"Turkey twizzlers for the Chelsea set" remarked the restaurant critic's wife. She liked her butternut squash, sage-and-honey soup, which was only diaphanously sweet.

The guest restaurant critic chose the seven-hour lamb. Has the restaurant been open long enough, I wondered. It arrived without any garnish, needing a couple of side orders at £3.50 each to add to its £13 price.

Roast pork cutlet with caramelised apples was juicier than the average pork chop but the side order of roasted parsnips seemed not to have been oven-cooked - when they turn agreeably scorched and creaky - but steeped in fat like a fondant potato.

Linguine alla vongole was based on very peculiar pasta, rather like an Eastern noodle or that anomaly, fresh spaghetti. We watched a baked Alaska for two set alight at a neighbouring table.

It was more dramatic than the experience I had hoped for at Tom's excessively noisy kitchen - sounds ricochet around white-tiled walls and off bare tables - but it was very early days. I'll go back. I like the look of the brunch menu.

Tom's Kitchen
Cale Street, London, SW3 3QP