A novel taste for design

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He has removed pomp and parody and concentrated on the potential in well brought-up produce. Nothing escapes him as the starting point for a dish, whether it be crispy pig's ear as a salad garnish or oxtail in a jellied terrine.

Not everything on the daily-changing menu is what some would regard as simply offal. There are noble fish dishes, and seasonal vegetables are often allowed to take centre stage, sometimes unrehearsed as in a pile of fresh peas to pod.

Henderson trained as an architect, and his sympathy for space is evident in the uncluttered dining room with, at its feet, a bar designed for robust snacking.

St John, 26 St John Street, EC1 (020-7251 0848). Mon-Sat (closed Sat lunch) £80 **

St. John
St. John Street, London, EC1M 4AY