A restaurant masquerading as gastropub

But what is most unusual about this N1 establishment is that for once aspirations on the menu seem matched by real talent in the kitchen.

The House emerged after a lengthy (and seriously expensive) transformation from dodgy local to chic eating and has been busy ever since; service is friendly and unstuffy.

The kitchen is an open one and before you even get to your food the signs are good - the chefs work quickly, quietly and neatly.

On the top of the grill there is an imposing piece of meat warming through: the chargrilled rib of Buccleuch beef, shallot crust, gratin Dauphinoise, green beans, jus gras.

Whoever gets to share this particular rib will be thankful that it wasn't straight from fridge to grill.

From the starters a parfait of foie gras, chicken livers and Armagnac comes with toasted brioche.

There's a tatin of red onion, with grilled goats' cheese.

Mains also hit the spot: braised spiced pork with ginger and pommes cocotte; roast sea bass with piperade; the house shepherd's pie.

When talking shepherd's pie, a price tag as large as you will find here takes some living up to, but this shepherd just about delivers.

Large chunks of lamb, good gravy, unctuous mash, crisp top.

Puds are good - warm gingerbread with clotted cream; Valrhona hot chocolate pudding.

Brunch is big here.

The House
Canonbury Road, London, N1 2DG