A shop and a bistro, both Gascon through and through

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No matter. Don't you sometimes wish that a really ace restaurant (like Club Gascon, see opposite) had a slightly simpler sidekick? The same glorious food naturally, but a bit less elaborate and a bit less expensive.

In Paris some of Monsieur Michelin's favourite chefs have spotted this 'gap' in the market and plugged it with a 'bistro en face' - quite literally a bistro opposite.

Hurrah! That's the role played by the Comptoir Gascon.

On one side of Smithfield Market there's the Club and on the other there's the Comptoir.

At the Comptoir you can drop in to buy fine bread, pâtisserie, cheeses and the wines of the South West.

You can also sit down to a bowl of cassoulet.

The food is good, well cooked, simply presented and comes in satisfyingly large portions.

Prices are reasonable and you can even drink very well without breaking the bank.

Starters may include the cheekily named 'piggy treats' - a serious pork-fest; duck rillettes; steamed oyster with crépinette; epic black pudding with caramelised apple; and a great deal of well-made rustic bread.

Mains range from a perfect steak tartare; to grilled squid with barley and tomato confit; to confit of duck; steamed haddock and greens; mini cheese ravioli with trompettes; and a poulet grand-mère des Landes.

The cassoulet is stellar, but everything is good.

For pud run amok at the cake counter.

This bistro provides a friendly and inexpensive way to eat some very good dishes indeed.

Comptoir Gascon
61-63 Charterhouse Street, EC1M 6HJ