A triumph of Eastern promise at Leong’s Legend

That has changed, however, with the opening of the third in the chain of Leong’s Legends. Originally in Chinatown, this is Leong’s Legends’ first outpost outside the West End.

Tucked in between tacky tourist gift shops and opposite a Pizza Hut, it’s already attracting a Chinese crowd (always a good sign in a Chinese restaurant). They may well be aware of Leong’s Legends’ reputation as the supplier of some of the best dim sum in London. Certainly, on Sunday lunchtime, there was the feeling of people falling on to the place, like lost travellers craving a decent meal.

The speciality of Leong’s Legends is authentic Taiwanese — less bland than Cantonese, not as fiery as Szechuan. The name is not some ego-trip devised by a chef called Leong — it refers to the tale of the Water Margin, where the rebel leader Song Jiang and his outlaws, known as "Liang’s legends" because they hide on Mount Liang or Leong, take on the corrupt government. That theme is continued in the décor, reminiscent of a Chinese inn, with low bamboo lights and wooden booths providing privacy, and a tiger skin and plenty of armour on display. Waitresses, too, are dressed traditionally and are enthusiastic: no sooner had we sat down than glasses of iced pearl tea with milk were brought to the table.

It seemed crazy not to go for the dim sum, in particular the signature soup dumplings or siu loung bao. We got eight pieces that were exactly as they should be — "like a volcano exploding in my mouth", said five-year-old Archie, his head presumably still full of footage of Iceland. If they represented excellent value for a fiver, the Taiwan mini-kebab with pork at £2.80 was a bargain. About the size of a burger, it comprised a slab of melting, sticky belly pork with a spicy, peanut sauce in a bun. Not only was it a meal in itself but it was delicious.

Taking the children to a restaurant like Leong’s Legends is a gamble. If they’re not happy it’s a waste of time and money, plus the experience can be hell. But they tried the lot and loved everything. Three-year-old Grace, incredibly, wanted more crispy shredded turnip, Archie couldn’t get enough of the bamboo rice — sticky rice cooked in bamboo, which gives it a caramelised flavour.

The bill, which also included numerous dim sum, fried noodles with beef, two mango puddings and Chinese tea, was a creditable £62.30. Afterwards, we made the short walk to the Princess Diana playground in Kensington Gardens. We lay on the grass, recovering, while the children played on the pirate ship and in the giant sandpit in the sunshine. A perfect London Sunday afternoon.

Leong's Legend
Queensway, London, W2 3RL