Abu Ali

My Account
Logout

Create an Evening Standard Account

Use your social network

Save time by using your existing account to sign in to Evening Standard

We'll never share your information or post anything to your account without your permission

Welcome! Sign in here

Use your social network

Save time by using your existing account to sign in to Evening Standard

We'll never share your information or post anything to your account without your permission

Forgot your password ?

Registration

* indicates fields that are mandatory

Email *

Password *

Confirm Password *

First name *

Surname *

Postcode *

Country *

Mobile phone number

Username *

Gender *

Year of birth *

When you sign up...

You will have access to all our online competitions, discounted offers and can post comments on our site.

You will also receive The Weekender newsletter sent every Thursday - it’s full of fantastic offers and ideas for the weekend. You can update your email preferences in your account page when you log in.

Other newsletters and emails

Homes & Property Newsletter - Yes I want to receive the weekly email with all the latest news on property in the capital

Occasionally we would also like to send you relevant emails detailing specific offers either from ourselves or carefully selected partners. If you would prefer not to receive these then please tick the appropriate boxes below. We will never pass on your details.

I do not want to receive additional offers and information from the Evening Standard

I do not want to receive additional offers and information sent by Evening Standard on behalf of carefully selected partners

Terms and Conditions

* I have read, understood and agree to be bound by the terms and conditions of Evening Standard

Registration

Mail Sent for Registration Confirmation.

A confirmation email has been sent. Please activate your account by clicking on the activation link sent in your mail box.

When unpretentious becomes the watchword of London eateries we will see Abu Ali soar to the top of the best-restaurant listings. This small, neon-lit Lebanese cafe has undergone something of a refurb. There are smart new tables and chairs for the pavement. There's a no smoking section (ironically enough, this is situated where the hubble-bubble pipe man used to have his counter for chopping up fruit and tobacco). There are even new comfy upholstered chairs. The grills and kitchen have stayed the same, although there is a new colour pictorial display of great dishes. The proprietor now sits in a sort of central pulpit surveying the everchanging scene while playing tunes on the cash register.

Abu Ali is a busy place; even the ceiling fans seem to whirr along, and the large television is tuned to a particularly upbeat Arabic satellite channel. The food is good, fresh, wholesome and cheap. Dishes are neither fancy nor elaborate. Service is friendly, and there is an unrelenting takeaway trade.

To start with, try warak inab (stuffed vine leaves). These are tightly rolled and the astringent leaves contrast with the bland stuffing. The baba ganoush is good here, a light purée of smoky aubergine with tahini, a strong, clear flavour that is almost bitter. Bread is bog-standard pitta, which wouldn't disappoint if only the other breads in this locale were not so splendid. It's a price thing, and the pitta does come warm. Other good starters are the kibbeh shamiyeh - crisply fried spheres with an outer coat of wheat mixture and an inner core of mince and gravy, which may sound implausible but is nevertheless true; and koushari, which is a splendid fry-up of rice, lentils and onions. Or how about a dish of chicken livers fried with spice and lemon juice? Well-judged and tasty.

The kebabs are good here - shawarma comes as either chicken or lamb - plenty of good crispy bits. Shish taouk is a chicken kebab. The kastelata chanam is superb; little lamb chops, grilled with care and served with salad. What's more you can choose to accompany these delights with either rice or French fries, which may not be ultra traditional but is certainly agreeable. The drinkers' options are limited to mint tea or soft drinks. It is sad to think that many people must walk past Abu Ali, clock that fact that it is full of Middle Eastern folk going about their business, and keep on walking, put off by the sheer foreignness of it all. Gather your courage in both hands, venture in and you will be rewarded by genuine hospitality and a good cheap meal.

Abu Ali
George Street, London, W1H 5LD