Bank on a slap-up City feast

Molloy's, however, is having a brave stab at it. In the calm, white first-floor room, perched a mere penny throw from the Bank Of England, it can feel rather like sitting inside an expensive parchment-quality envelope. But, though it has only just opened, we weren't, as we'd feared, the only occupants. There was a lively 30th birthday party on one side and what looked like a salacious assignation in a corner.

Food was good, solid fare: potted shrimps, lamb and steaks. Starters were on the steep side, though tasty and monster portions: pan-fried scallops with chorizo, lentils and grilled chilli, £9.75.

Next, a magnificent Scottish fillet steak, big as a grown man's fist, with roast garlic mash and wild mushrooms (£24.50), pleasingly rare as requested.

The biggest hit, though, was one of the nursery-style puds, aimed at the local fat cats. The succulent lemon tart that had us licking our lips was £6.25, but it was even better than the M&S one, so well worth it.

The eager, if amateur, staff had a slightly scared demeanour, as if they expected the customers to throw bread rolls at them. Perhaps they sometimes do. This is certainly a place aimed at those with expense accounts. If you don't have that perk, it's a canny one to pack your boss off to for a long slap-up lunch - so you can slope off somewhere livelier if you want to chance it.

Molloy's
48 Gresham Street, EC2V 7AY