Best Credit Brunch in London

Actually, brunch is quite the most relaxed and convivial of meals and perfect for these straitened times. Best shared with friends and a big pile of newspapers at the weekend, it is also an economical way to fill a midweek morning for those who suddenly find themselves with time on their hands that used to be filled by work.
And brunch is international: I've brunched agreeably in New Orleans, London, Berlin, Amsterdam and Copenhagen.

Of course, brunch isn't for wimps. Even in its healthiest incarnations — pancakes with blueberries, say, or Eggs Florentine — its primary constituents are protein, carbs and fat.

Ideally washed down with a stiff Bloody Mary or refreshing Mimosa. A proper brunch should give you enough fuel to get through the day, and enough booze to take the kinks out of the morning while still feeling like a naughty indulgence.
Because above all, brunch is a riposte to the conventions of set mealtimes and working hours. It is an indication that you were up late last night and you're not hurrying to work today. It is a celebration of all things fun and free-spirited. As The Westminster Gazette noted back in 1900: "Perish Scrambling breakfast, formal lunch! Hardened night-birds fondly cherish/All the subtle charms of brunch'."

London's five best brunches

Fusion food at The Providores and Tapa Room
In the downstairs Tapa Room of The Providores, the New Zealand chefs offer up imaginative brunch dishes.
Brunch on: sweetcorn and blueberry fritters with avocado, tomato and rocket salad (£8.80) with a tamarillo and kiwifruit smoothie (£5.20).
Cost and contact: average £15-£20 per head. Served 9am-11am weekdays and 10am-3pm weekends. 109 Marylebone High Street, W1, 020 7935 6175,
www.theprovidores.co.uk

Hangover cures at The Ambassador
Acknowledging that you may well be nursing a hangover at brunch, jugs of Bloody Mary are offered for £10 at the top of the wide-ranging menu.
Brunch on: waffles with sweet cure bacon and apple compote (£5.50) or mackerel fillets with asparagus (£12.75).
Cost and contact: average £10-£25 per head. Served 11am-3.30pm Saturdays and 11am-4pm Sundays. 55 Exmouth Market, EC1, 020 7837 0009, www.theambassadorcafe.co.uk

Slow mornings at Indigo, One Aldwych
Indigo offers a hearty brunch with a suitably relaxed attitude to last orders — they serve until "three(ish)".
Brunch on: kedgeree (£12) and a rhubarb, vanilla and champagne cocktail from the Hair of the Dog menu (£7.50).
Cost and contact: average £20-£25 per head. Served 12-3pm Saturdays and Sundays. 1 Aldwych, WC2, 020 7300 0300, www.onealdwych.com/aldwych/home/indigo

DIY toast at Breads Etcetera
Every table has a toaster at Breads Etcetera and at the weekend the all-you-can-eat DIY toast (usually £3.50) is included with any brunch order.
Brunch on: wild mushrooms, pan-fried with smoked bacon or chicken liver pâté (£7.75)
Cost and contact: average £12.50 per person. Served 10am-4pm Tuesday to Sunday. 127 Clapham High Street, SW4, 020 7720 3601, www.breadsetcetera.com

Brunch anytime at The Wolseley
Theirs truly is an all-day menu, with brunch on offer until midnight. Dishes range from sandwiches to fancy caviar.
Brunch on: Swordfish and Green Tomato (£12.50).
Cost and contact: average £15-£25 per person. Served 11.30am-midnight.
160 Piccadilly, W1, 020 7499 6996, www.thewolseley.com