Calabrian offer you can't refuse at L'Anima - Restaurants - Going Out - Evening Standard
       

Calabrian offer you can't refuse at L'Anima

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Apparently Francesco Mazzei's inspiration is his childhood in Calabria, where the food is, according to his publicity blurb, "more of an expression of love and tradition than a necessity". So I'd fondly expected to be slurping down spaghetti in a rustic, rosytinted trattoria straight out of The Godfather. Think again.

Situated a mere BlackBerry's throw from Liverpool Street and designed by architect Claudio Silvestrin, the look is minimalist and sleek. I thought Mazzei's homely cuisine ethos would be a misfit in this chic glass restaurant - until, that is, an elegant palm tree made of beef marrow wafted past. You see, presentation here is exquisite. Having feasted on complimentary nut-stuffed bread and gobstopper green olives we tucked into starters. We had a gorgeously creamy £8.50 dish of wood-roast aubergine and burrata ("cow mozzarella filled with fresh cream" explained the menu), and a £13 zesty crab, avocado and carasau ("Sardinian crispy flat bread") with bags of flavour. My date had a Sicilian rabbit, (£13) the soft, tasty meat served with pistachios. My signature dish - a rather unremarkable fish stew with Sardinian fregola - wasn't quite the wow you'd expect for £20. But I was perked up by our delightful (and free) taster of dreamy hazelnut ice cream, which came compliments of the chef, who, we were told, "welcomed our comments". Well, bribery will get you everywhere.

The date, meanwhile, dug into a dark chocolate iced truffle (£6), flamboyantly wrapped in tissue paper, and joyfully exclaimed "I've found treasure!" as he hit its dense core. Handmade petits fours were also complimentary with our fragrant Italian coffee, and a chilled digestif of limoncello. L'Anima may be one to save for special treats, but it treats you very well in return.

L'Anima
Snowden Street, London, EC2A 2DQ

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