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Colchis - review
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12 January 2012
Of the former member states of the Soviet Union, Georgia is invariably credited with the best cooking and the most dedicated love of feasting.
The Italian chef at this recently launched converted pub (Assagi is on the first floor), named after the ancient kingdom of Colchis from where according to mythology Jason and the Argonauts stole the Golden Fleece, has produced a fairly traditional menu.
As often happens, khachapuri (pillow-soft cheese-filled leavened bread) was the standout assembly in the first course followed by lobio mchadit, kidney bean stew. The vegetable purées that comprised the pkhali platter were described by one of my companions as "going some way to explaining Stalin's later behaviour". I thought that was a tiny bit harsh.
Mixed shashlik and rib-eye steak were likeable for their relative simplicity. Pheasant in the casserole chakhokhbili had been stewed to rags.
Another of my companions recognised the Italian manager from PJ's Bar & Grill in Fulham Road.
He was doing a creditable job of looking Georgian and acting with a suitable sense of hospitality.
Drink Saperavi reds and raise a glass for toasts with chacha (Georgian grappa).
Colchis
39 Chepstow Place, W2
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