Critic's choice: Sophisticated kebab

Look through the window of any of the many new Middle Eastern restaurants in London and you will see elegant types eating their kebabs and tabouleh.

But finding the right kebab is fraught with difficulty. A brief glance at the meat on the skewer tells almost all you need to know about shawarma kebabs. If it looks like a giant, unmoulded can of KiteKat, leave immediately.

But if visible layers of fresh marinated hunks of lamb are piled onto the vertical rotisserie, you are on the right track.

The cat-meat version of the shawarma, which is mechanically recovered meat, fat and connective tissue that has been vacuumed off a lamb carcass, is responsible for the "unhealthy" label attached to kebabs. Avoid it. True Lebanese shawarma, or doner as they are known in Turkey, are healthy and nutritious

The fresh lamb (or chicken) is macerated in a tenderising yoghurt-and-herb-based marinade and the meat is probably halal. Most places I surveyed were unsure of the origins of their meat, but all claimed their lamb was British.

Diners concerned about animal welfare may well want to avoid chicken shawarma as the meat is commonly the intensively farmed, broiler-house variety. The other key elements of a top-class kebab are that the flatbread and salad vegetables are fresh, and the garlic or sesame sauce is home-made.

The three kebab shops listed here were outstanding, but also visit vibrant Edgware Road. Some of its restaurants have mushroomed into large chains; Al Dar has the best reputation, followed by Ranoush. Maroush kebabs are good, if occasionally greasy...

Mangal Ocakbasi Restaurant - full listing
10 Arcola Street, E8 (020 7275 8981, www.mangal1.com). Price: lamb shawarma, £4
Meat is marinated overnight in milk, herbs, red pepper and yoghurt. The homemade bread is beautifully thin, and the mixed salad extraordinarily crisp. Mangal's counter is packed with a huge variety of meat from quail to lamb cutlets all ready to sizzle over a pit of white-hot charcoal.

Fatoush - full listing
183 Edgware Road, W2 (020 7706 0725 www.fatoush.com). Price: lamb shawarma, £3.50.
My favourite Lebanese shawarma. The meat is well roasted and browned, boosting the flavour. Once wrapped in bread, the kebab is returned to the charcoal to crisp up; a nice touch. I prefer the traditional shop, with its Islamic tiles and shortly-to-be-banned hubba bubba; but there is a shinier modern Fatoush shop two doors down that is perfect for families.

Best Mangal No 1 - full listing
104 North End Road, W14 (0871 0755082). Price: lamb shawarma, £4.
Another great Turkish kebab shop. Its enormous doner contained nicely browned meat and was wrapped in the shop's excellent home-made bread.