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Easy Thai, by the bowlful
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28 September 2006
Busaba occupies a West End site that was once a bank - you remember the days when banks were conveniently positioned all over the place? Former customers stumbling into 106 Wardour Street would be more than a little surprised by the dark, designery and implacably trendy Thai eatery that is now well bedded in.
This place serves decent Thai food at low prices, and with consummate lack of pretension.
For all the cod philosophy, this is a jolly and energetic restaurant and you will probably have a very good time.
There's no booking so there may be queuing, and the tables are large so there may be sharing.
Food, grouped into categories, veers towards one-pot dishes, and vegetarians are particularly well served.
If you want starters you need to peruse the side dishes.
Choose from such things as po-pea jay, which are vegetable spring rolls; or fishcakes; or Thai calamari, which are not unlike everyone else's calamari.
There are curries: Mussaman duck curry; green chicken curry; green vegetable curry; and aromatic butternut pumpkin curry.
You'll find genuine Thai veg, such as pea aubergines, sweet basil and lime leaves, although dishes do tend to be on the sweet side.
Or there's phad Thai, and thom yam chicken.
Stir-fries include chargrilled duck in tamarind sauce with Chinese broccoli; ginger beef; and chargrilled cod with lemongrass and tamarind sauce.
The power juice phenomenon has reached Busaba.
Nam polamai is organic, and combines carrot, apple and celery with dandelion and nettle extract.
Mekhong Thai whiskey with ice is listed for the more adventurous.
Busaba Eathai
Wardour Street, London, W1F 0TR
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