Establishment comfort zone

That's not because they'll be hounded by well-wishers or because photographers will be waiting outside.

They won't.

This restaurant is discreet enough to make an oyster seem a blabbermouth.

It's not even particularly plush or comfortable, with a black-and-white-tiled floor, a big black bar and cane seats.

What keeps Le Caprice full day in, day out is an amazing level of personal service, properly prepared food and a bill that holds no surprises.

The much-imitated menu is enticing from the first glance.

Plum tomato and basil galette is simplicity itself.

Crispy duck comes with watercress salad, while dressed Dorset crab with celeriac remoulade is very fresh and clean.

In season there are splendid specials - River Spey sea trout with steamed clams and parsley.

Or perhaps Tamworth pork chop with white asparagus and rosemary butter.

Or there may be loin of yellow fin tuna with spiced lentils.

This kitchen expends time and effort on finding small producers and securing the best of everything.

If you are still up for pudding, try banana sticky toffee pudding, or the baked Alaska with cherries and Kirsch to see just what classic English puds are about.

In the winter there is an array of more solid rib-stickers.

Expense aside, the only trouble with Le Caprice is the struggle to get a table.

Try booking well in advance, or go for a last-minute place at the bar.

Le Caprice
Arlington Street, London, SW1A 1RJ