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Five to try: Cafe Society
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11 February 2009
2-4 Boundary Street, E2 (020 7729 1051) £20
You have to hand it to Tel Boy: he has kept his finger on the pulse. What we want now is hearth and home, tongue and groove, kippers, steak with bone marrow, pork crackling, stewed fruit, antique cutlery, tea cosies; all are present and correct in this recently opened caff on the ground floor of a building which will eventually also offer rooftop dining and bedrooms. Downstairs, find classic Terence Conran in Boundary Restaurant.
FLAT WHITE
17 Berwick Street, W1 (020 7734 0370) £10
Pronounced by New Zealanders "flet wyte", as the owners here reveal, I was recently introduced to this coffee's superiority to cappuccino on a Christmas trip to the Antipodes. Texturing the milk is one important move as is wrist action with the pouring to conjure an imprint of the "crema" on top of velvety foam. Sitting under pictures of beaches that mock this miserable climate you can order an all-day breakfast complete with toast and Vegemite — and dream on.
THE WOLSELEY
160 Piccadilly, W1 (020 7499 6996) £35
Valentine's Day falling on a Saturday is a bugger for restaurateurs — all those tables for two eat into profits — and imposes additional strain on swains who have to make a reservation. The open-all-day policy at The Wolseley, one of the most romantic rooms in London, means that with judicious timing you can order from the café menu, say, a plateau de fruits de mer, a glass of champagne or a seductive afternoon tea.
CAKE BOY
Kingfisher House, Battersea Reach, SW18 (020 7978 5555) £14
If it is true that chocolate is the way to a woman's heart, then Master Patissier Eric Lanlard, aka Cake Boy, is your man. Having established himself as baker to the stars — don't be discouraged by the fact that he made Madonna's wedding cake — he has opened a seductive café and cookery school. His creations are a joy to behold and to eat. An afternoon course majoring in chocolate cake and truffles is available.
CLERKENWELL KITCHEN
27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1
(020 7101 9959) £20
Helen Gray, ex-Eyre Brothers, and Emma Miles, ex-River Cottage, cater private functions here in the evenings, which is how I discovered this wholesome, homely café/restaurant/takeaway which services Clerkenwell Workshops as well as locals and anyone else. Winner in 2008 of Time Out's Best Sustainable Restaurant, it becomes apparent in the thoughtful buying of ingredients, the putting up of homemade preserves and condiments and the six dishes prepared daily.
Prices estimate a casual meal with glass of wine (if applicable) for one.
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