Five to try: Counter dining

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JIN KICHI
73 Heath Street, NW3 (020 7794 6158) £30
There is nothing quite like New York's Momofuku (meaning lucky peach) group in London and this long-established Japanese restaurant doesn't come close in terms of profile or diversity. But the small dining rooms are invariably packed and there are counter seats around a charcoal grill where you can order yakitori Set A at £11.80 or Set B at £9.50 in order to plan further delicious nibbling. The long menu features sashimi, sushi and much else.

TIERRA BRINDISA
46 Broadwick Street, W1
(020 7534 1690) £40
Counter seats at the back of this offshoot of Tapas Brindisa in Borough Market have entertaining proximity to the open kitchen and currently are perhaps easier to secure than a table booking. Let's hope that when there are even more tapas bars in Soho, customers will use them as casually as their name dictates. Monika Linton's company imports first-rate ingredients from Spain and is expanding fast: Casa Brindisa in Exhibition Road opens on the 28th of this month.

BENTLEY'S OYSTER BAR
11-15 Swallow Street, W1
(020 7734 4756) £40
The best seats at Bentley's are in the Oyster Bar, where the bivalves are opened before your eyes and the blackboard menu leads you into further temptation. Head chef Brendan Fyldes can translate Richard Corrigan's passions into perfection on the plate. I am thinking back to beautifully presented squeaky-fresh crab with Irish soda bread, and scallop and pea fritters with almond and mint aioli. Corrigan's Mayfair, 28 Upper Grosvenor Street (020 7499 9943) opens tomorrow evening.

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON
13-15 West Street, WC2
(020 7010 8600) £75
The ground floor Japanese-inspired "workshop" is designed to encourage interaction with the staff, as are dishes that might require explanation. Clouseau-like accents remove the pain from having to listen to the description of a concept and a dialogue — and chatting to your neighbour — becomes easy and natural. The food is French, imaginative, precise and often near-perfect but the cost can leave a sour taste. Set lunch menus are a relatively reasonable way in.

BRICK LANE BEIGEL BAKE
159 Brick Lane, E1 (020 7729 0616) £6
There is a little ledge in this handy 24‑hour operation where you might prop yourself up to sniff the aromas and watch the bagels being taken from the oven. Long queues and non-stop service guarantee freshness. Fillings of smoked salmon and cream cheese and salt beef are generous. If that's not enough, the cheesecake and chocolate cake are markedly fine. In the early hours it gets as crowded as the club you've just left.

Prices estimate a meal with an appropriate drink for one.