Fresh fish with flair

After a good deal of redesign and refurbishment, it emerged from the builders' clutches as J. Sheekey, with much the same attitudes and style as its senior siblings, but still focused on fish.

The restaurant may look new, but it certainly seems old, and its series of interconnecting dining rooms gives it an intimate feel.

The cooking is accomplished, the service is first-rate, and the fish is fresh - a good combination.

The long menu presents a seductive blend of plain, old-fashioned, classic fish cuisine, such as lemon sole belle meunière, with more modern dishes like whole roast gilthead bream with herbs and olive oil.

There are always handwritten dishes on the menu, 'specials' that change on a weekly basis.

To start with, there are oysters, crabs and shellfish, plus everything from jellied eels and devilled whitebait, to seared rare tuna.

Main courses, like pan-fried wing of skate with capers and brown butter, or Cornish fish stew with celery heart and garlic mayonnaise, are backed up by classics such as fillet of cod and Sheekey's fish pie.

Puddings range from spotted dick with butter and golden syrup, to wild strawberry and champagne jelly with Jersey cream.

As well as smart wines, there are plenty of options at the cheaper end of the list for sensible drinking.

The set lunch at the weekend is a genuine bargain.

J Sheekey
St. Martin's Court, London, WC2N 4AL