Gordon tastes defeat... again

The Narrow, which opened in Limehouse in March, has been beaten to the title of best gastropub in the latest Time Out eating and drinking awards. It is the latest example of Ramsay falling out of favour with major food guides.

The 32-table venue, which is in a Grade II-listed former dockmaster's house, lost out to the Rosendale in West Dulwich, which is run by Mark and Sharyln van der Goot, the team behind The Greyhound in Battersea.

Cath Phillips, the Time Out guide's co-editor, said: 'The Narrow came the closest to beating the Rosendale but in terms of quality of food, service, all-round dining experience and an exceptional wine list the Rosendale had the
edge.'

'We're not knocking Gordon Ramsay — he is a gifted chef and clever businessman. But with his money and experience, he would be in trouble if couldn't run a successful gastropub.'

'There has been a bit of a public backlash against Gordon Ramsay but these things tend to go in cycles.'

'It's good to have competition and not have one style of food dominating London eating.'

Last week, Ramsay's eponymous restaurant at 68 Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea lost the title of London's best restaurant in the Zagat London Restaurants guide to Chez Bruce in Wandsworth.

Last month, the three Michelin-starred restaurant failed to hold on to two of its three crowns in the annual Harden's awards, having won all three for seven consecutive years.

Although Restaurant Gordon Ramsay was named the top gastronomic experience, Chez Bruce was voted best for food and Pétrus in Knightsbridge, part of the Gordon Ramsay Group and run by Ramsay protégé Marcus Wareing, was given the guide's highest overall rating, based on food, ambience and service.

The guide's authors said the chef had spent too much time on TV and concentrating on the restaurant in New York that he opened last year.

Ramsay also lost out in the Good Food Guide 2008 to Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, although his restaurant was named the best in London.

Last week, he decided to close his Michelin-starred operation with Angela Hartnett at the Connaught after a row over providing room service food for hotel guests.

However, the Narrow was praised in the new Michelin guide to pub food this month as 'a handsome pub in a grand spot ... as you would expect, the kitchen knows what it's doing and, what's more, the prices are competitive.'

The guide said it was at the vanguard of a shift back to traditional English cooking in pubs.

And the winners are...

Best bar — The Rake, 14 Winchester Walk, SE1

Best British restaurant — National Dining Rooms, National Gallery, Trafalgar Square

Best cheap eats — Kiasu, 48 Queensway, W2

Best family restaurant — Tate Modern Café, Level 2, Tate Modern, Sumner Street

Best gastropub — Rosendale, 65 Rosendale Road, SE21

Best local restaurant — Trinity, 4 The Polygon, SW4

Leffe best new restaurant — Wild Honey, 12 George
Street, W1