Heavy hitter, reborn and revitalised

Not one of those small flare-ups in the chip pan, but a real raging inferno.

Fast forward a year or so and there's a new dining room front and back, a new bar on the first floor and an elegant new private room on the second floor.

There is even a completely new kitchen.

Things such as fires are wildly inconvenient, but this is a resto that shoots for the Michelin stars and having the ultimate refurb cannot but help.

The food is ambitious; dishes are complex both in terms of tastes and textures and in presentation.

Service is suave and there is a particularly long and fulsome wine list.

The food is very good indeed.

Starters may include oxtail and shallot soup with oxtail and horseradish tortellini and celeriac cream - very rich flavours cut by the tang of horseradish, delicious; curry-poached Falmouth oysters with potato blinis and cauliflower purée; or roast breast of teal with choucroute, chanterelles and Scotch quail egg - perfectly cooked duck.

Mains range from pan-fried wild sea bass with creamed shallot, roast salsify and cèpes; to best end of salt marsh lamb with roast peppers and a 'braised lamb shank sandwich' - a small crisp parcel with a melting interior.

Desserts are elaborate: bittersweet chocolate tart; macadamia nut mousse and stout ice cream; or a prune and walnut frangipane with ginger ice cream, tea-infused prunes and crystallised ginger.

If your bank account flinches at the prospect of a visit, try the du jour menu at lunch.

This is top-notch cooking.

Pied a Terre Restaurant
Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2NH