Hot meets cool at Boho Mexica

And the small plates menu — what the Mexicans call "antojitos" — will set you back around £3.50-£5 a dish. Not a bad deal to try out unusual flavours such as zucchini-flower empanadas or Mayan-style braised pork.

Walls and pillars are covered in 1950s Mexican film posters as well as Enrique’s school textbooks. As for the mural (think Banksy meets Keith Haring), his cousin Alejandro has blended Mexico’s landmarks with London sites.

Portions are tapas-size at Boho Mexica, so order for greed. We started with ensalada Boho (herby salad with radish, cheese and pumpkin seed dressing), Portobello mushrooms and a cocktail de Camarón each (sweet prawn cocktail, Acapulco-style).

If you loathe Tex-Mex eating, try the more subtle tostadas de ceviche (sea bass marinated in lime and herbs). And flautas — tacos with cheese, potato and jalapeno chilli, which are pleasantly fiery. My companion fell upon the carnitas tacos (pork slowly cooked in an aromatic bouquet of spices) and la pollera, chicken paillard marinated with avocado, tomato and lettuce.

But the triumph is pan de elote (cornbread with onions and salsa), which has the lovely, gloopy texture of bread and butter pudding. "I’ve not tasted cornbread like it, even in Mexico City!" my companion enthused.

The wine list is modest so stick to cocktails — blueberry mojito and the house special, carlota, made with hibiscus flowers and chilli salt.
Mexicans love corn so much that it’s served here as a dessert, with grated cheese and chilli. But I’d recommend copa nevada, a light vanilla and cinnamon cream with lime meringue. At first you think "Mexican Angel Delight". But pour a shot of 43 liquor on top — and it kicks like a mule.

Unlike Favela Chic down the road you don’t get arrogant bouncers or chucked off your table at 9pm and made to dance with mad people. Yes, the Boho Mexica clientele is made up of media types (keep an eye out for Shoreditch Twat), but all ages and backgrounds are represented.

And the music — a mix of Thirties, Forties and Fifties records — is great. By tipping out time, you could be in Latin America.

Boho Mexica
Commercial Street, London, E1 6BJ