How an Italian family restaurant is meant to be

Neither of us had been to the stalwart in Langton Street, on the kink in the road at World's End, for years and even then it had always been in the evening and usually on the patio in summer. We weren't sure how the staff and their white-tiled emporium would react to a lunchtime visit from Archie, two, and Grace, three months - especially as it was too cold to sit outside.

Of course, we should have realised by the title: they adored the little ones. They took to them as only Italians can and the French never will.

There are rules in serving small children and surviving that must be obeyed. These waiters did not put a foot wrong. The welcome was genuine and smiling; a window table was found immediately; a high chair brought instantly; breakable glasses were cleared away. Menus were supplied promptly, the staff made faces at the children.

Our bruschetta couldn't have been simpler: bread rubbed vigorously with olive oil and garlic, and plastered with sweet, cherry tomatoes. Divine. Archie's child's portion of tomato and cheese pasta came at the same time as our starter (more proof of a restaurant that knows its infants).

While we had main courses of seafood spaghetti and spaghetti with asparagus, Archie had chocolate ice cream. We revelled in the freshness of the ingredients, the perfection of the cooking and the blazing, vibrant colours; he smeared chocolate all over the crisp white tablecloth. We kept apologising but the waiters just laughed. They didn't mind.

The atmosphere was friendly, so much so that, remarkably, diners from different tables were actually talking to each other. With two glasses each of the house white and red, and coffees, we paid £85.40 - more expensive than a normal spur of the moment lunch, but unbeatable in terms of enjoyment. Frankie and Marco please note: La Famiglia, how an Italian "family" restaurant is meant to be.

La Famiglia
Langton Street, London, SW10 0JL