Illicit times at the Fox Club

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They've just tarted up the formerly elegantly shabby bar and restaurant (the nine bedrooms, named after Mrs Armistead's lovers, are next), where non-members can eat at lunchtime.

Members-only dinners are more evolved but lunch is of the wine bar, fishcake and steak sandwich variety. Our mixed antipasti features rather ordinary affettati bolstered by incredibly fresh, sweetly lactic mozzarella bocconcini.

Cherry tomato and chilli tagliatelle topped by a forest of rocket is unremarkable; house salad with grilled chicken, pancetta and egg is almost as much of a museum piece as Fox himself.

But we love the hidden nature of the place; even our blameless two-gals lunch seems somehow illicit.

I'd say the refit is designed to attract more of a feminine membership. Clues come with that so-girlie lunchtime menu and the fact they're currently offering a special introductory joining rates for the laydees.

Non-members can also book rooms, which makes me think back to Fox, that rakish old roué: this would be the perfect spot to get up to no good.

Lunch for two with wine, water and service costs about £70. 46 Clarges Street W1. Tel: 020 7495 3656. www.foxclublondon.com Tube: Green Park

The Fox Club
Clarges Street, London, W1J 7ER