It’s hard to go wrong with the colourful food at Keelung

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First we perused the chef’s specials: no fewer than 22 fish varieties, from conger eel to salmon head, and 10 ways to have them cooked. Then there was the cheap, treat-packed Night Market Tapas option, plus a daytime dim sum list. Whatever you choose, it’s hard to go wrong with the colourfully tasty, authentic food.

We loved the razor clams (£3 each). Too often chewy, here they were steamed to a juicy tenderness with fragrant chilli. The manager, when pressed, recommended the Chilean sea bass (£13.80), a pleasant if safe bet, accompanied by ginger and steamed onion. The more exotic dishes wowed us even more.

I braved the house special of boneless pigs’ trotters in a clay pot of soy sauce and rice wine (£9), the mouth-watering tender meat much like a richer-tasting pork belly. Crayfish stir-fried in chilli (£18.80) looked stunning in their shells surrounded by vibrantly scarlet chillis, but were hard work, with very little meaty reward.

Fresh eel-fried noodles (£7.20) were my favourite: slippery, thick and packed with flavour. This is a buzzy, conveniently central, cheapish place for dinner. But watch it — if your date opts for "stir-fried morning glory with garlic" (£5.80) they could be hinting at something else altogether.

Keelung
272 Portobello Road, WC2H 7BG