J. Sheekey

Formerly, this sprawling warren of rooms on St Martin's Court was a fusty, old-fashioned pillar of the establishment; since 1998 it's been a slick, modern-but-retro pillar of the establishment. Pre-1998 it was grinding along, selling oysters and fish dishes to a loyal and elderly clientele, then in swept Caprice Holdings, who knew a thing or two about running famous restaurants as they had the Ivy and Le Caprice, both of which were purring along full of contented customers and more difficult to get a table at than anywhere else in town. Whatever were London's restaurant wunderkinder going to make out of Sheekey's - an establishment which by common consent was well past its best? Their initial approach was to rebuild the inside and re-name the place. J. Sheekey emerged as a refined, plush restaurant serving top-class fish and with a cunningly-devised menu that blends old-fashioned and familiar dishes with new, more modern combinations. Like its siblings, J. Sheekey is a fairly clubby sort of place, and manages to tread the fringes of being expensive while still being good value. The rooms are long and the banquettes squishy, it feels opulent and the service is crisp in a gentleman's club style. Although quite bright, the restaurant has a dark brown tone to it that is reassuringly cosy and comfortable. The menu ticks all the boxes. There are oysters (a touch pricey), fruits de mer, lobsters, prawns, Dublin Bay prawns and crabs. Among the starters there are always a couple of seasonal specials like game broth with wild mushroom tortellini; or soused arctic herrings with Swedish mustard. And there is a host of traditional starters, given due respect and well-executed - whisper-crisp devilled whitebait; Morecambe Bay potted shrimps; jellied eels; oak-smoked eel. Then, just when all seems pleasantly familiar, there might be a risotto of Scottish girolles, char-grilled razor clams, or roast Italian aubergine with buffalo mozzarella. On to the fish (although there is a roast partridge available for incorrigible meat-eaters). The fish is fresh and accurately cooked - when talking about fish cookery, there is very little that you can say that carries much more weight than these two vital considerations. The roast halibut with peas, bacon and tarragon is very good. The herb-crusted cod is good - large flakes of pearly fish neither overdone nor underdone. There's a lemon sole; a Dover sole; salmon; Albacore tuna; smoked haddock. The pommes allumettes are the thinnest, crispest chips that you could hope to encounter. The carrot pur?e comes with chervil, a delicious, sweet, rich and brightly coloured sludge. If you falter at the prospect of roes on toast or Keen's excellent Farmhouse Cheddar, the puddings will appeal - spotted dick is there (doubtless still puzzling American tourists), also cr?me brul?e, and queen of puddings. Daring modern derivatives include Eton Mess made with blackberries, and Mirabelle plum jelly with Jersey cream. If you needed a restaurant to convince a bank manager that your overdraft was paltry; or your boss that you were underpaid and indispensable; or a potential father-in-law that your intentions were honourable... J.Sheekey would get you off to a flying start.

J Sheekey
St. Martin's Court, London, WC2N 4AL