Kitchen can only get better

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The small, prettily decorated premises in one of London's loveliest squares had been open for more than a week, so the amateurishness seemed inexcusable.

Our table was on the ground floor - there is also a cosy basement with sofas and foodie magazines to leaf through - with a view into a little kitchen where someone was laboriously sorting salad leaves into Tupperware boxes.

A nice girl wearing a long pinny took our order but seemed to keep it to herself. We ordered again: chilli and salt squid followed by grilled Mediterranean vegetables for my friend; baked Cornish goat's cheese with garden lettuces followed by home-cooked ham with a selection of today's salads for me.

After a while a woman came out of the kitchen - it could have been Sara - to say that the fryer wasn't working and so the squid could not be cooked. Many of the items offered on the blackboard had been crossed off, but egg and bacon pie had survived. She who was denied the squid chose to have a piece with the Mediterranean vegetables.

As I ate my little slices of tepid cheese fried in breadcrumbs on some lacklustre leaves with barely a drop of dressing, she made do with sourdough bread and butter (charged at £2.50).

The bacon and egg pie was overcooked and included peas, which just looked like canny housekeeping. Slices of aubergine, peppers and courgettes which also came with the ham looked exhumed rather than roasted and with them was a pile of unwanted herb-dressed penne. "I hadn't meant to eat any carbs at lunch," muttered my friend.

Whoever was in charge of the salad leaves hadn't washed the fresh mint used for tea as a fine cloud of mud settled in the bottom of the pot.

Handy for the high street as well as the nearby primary school, a constituency of glamorous mums looked content as they nibbled on slices of home-made iced cakes. There is a surprisingly enterprising wine list. Kensington Square Kitchen can only get better.

Price above estimates a meal with wine for one.

Kensington Square Kitchen
Kensington Square, London, W8 5EP