Launceston Place

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Entering the tastefully furnished dining rooms located on the ground floor of this charming period townhouse, there is a genteel, clubby atmosphere. Locals, in their proprietorial way, refer to it as "No.1, The Place". Unfortunately, the conservatism spills over into the menu, where the rarefied prices are not really justified by a sophistication or lightness of touch in the implementation. Asparagus with rocket and Parmesan was, from the start, an erratic concept, while rubbery blinis took half the pleasure out of a starter of smoked salmon. Duck confit with plum and chilli jam is a stratospheric £15, while a main-course portion of canneloni [sic] with morels, ricotta and Parmesan weighs in at £12, and neither is as exciting as the prices suggest. Better value are the set menus available at lunchtime and in the early evening. What you lose on the swings you gain on the roundabouts: the wine list offers plenty of good bottles at below £20.

Launceston Place
Launceston Place, London, W8 5RL