Lobster HQ

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Whatever you fancy for the main course, start with as many of the steamed scallops on the shell with garlic soya sauce as you can afford.

They're magnificent.

Then decide between lobster, crab or fish.

If you go for the lobster, you can have it as sashimi; steamed; with ginger and spring onions; or with black bean and green pepper chilli sauce (whichever way it will be 'seasonally priced').

Be sure that you order the optional extra soft noodle to make a meal of it.

The crab is tempting, too.

Live crabs are shipped up from the south coast, and you can opt for a handsome portion of shells, lots of legs and four claws baked with ginger and spring onion.

Fish dishes require more thought - and an eye to the seasonally changing per-pound prices, which do reflect the gluts and shortages of the fish market.

The menu lists sea bass, turbot, Dover sole, red snapper and pomfret.

The steamed eel with black-bean sauce is notably rich.

The squid in chilli and black-bean sauce is good.

The Mandarin Kitchen serves good fresh fish, but the downside is that reservations are a waste of time - you'll be greeted by blank stares.

Mandarin Kitchen
Queensway, London, W2 3RX