Local hero from the days of old Soho

This place has been an institution in the area for nearly two decades - a long time when you consider how speedily so many restaurants come and go.

It all started when the lease on the wine bar next door to his print gallery became vacant and Andrew decided that, as he wanted to go on eating there himself, he should take it on.

The restaurant now has a loyal band of regulars who like the imaginative bistro-style dishes, strong flavours and bold combinations.

It's cosy, dark and very crowded.

The menu changes weekly and combines solid favourites with bright new ideas.

Start with parsnip and apple soup; or dressed crab; or black pudding, caramelised apples and horseradish crème fraÎche.

Main courses may include stalwart and straightforward dishes such as best end of lamb, with haricot beans and thyme purée and roast aubergines; confit duck leg with red cabbage and potato wedges; roast monkfish with mash and purple-sprouting broccoli; or an impressive vegetarian option like vegetable tagine with couscous, toasted almonds and coriander.

This is very like stumbling on a neighbourhood restaurant in some affluent suburb, only you are in the very heart of Soho.

Puddings include chocolate mousse cake; the ubiquitous tiramisù; nutmeg ice cream.

Wines are a passion with Andrew Edmunds.

The constantly changing, broker-bought list is long and special and, because of his low mark-up policy, there are some genuine bargains.

Booking is essential as the dining room has a limited number of covers.

Andrew Edmunds
46 Lexington Street, W1F 0LW