London's best kept culinary secret

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I have been coming here for two years and not once have I made a reservation. I just walk in off the street. Mogador combines the feel of a friendly neighbourhood joint with the couture service of an upmarket restaurant. Located north of the main tourist drag of Portobello Road on the site of the old Brasserie du Marche aux Puces, it seems to have fallen off the culinary map. It has a relaxing Mediterranean vibe with chilled-out music and tasteful decor.

Much of the charm of the place is down to the self-effacing restaurateur Hakim Amezghar. Mogador's signature starter, the pan-fried sardines, are filleted, marinated with sharmoula and oregano, and then butterflied. They look and taste exquisite. You get the impression that every dish has just been freshly prepared. The house wine (Boulaouane, £16) is rich and smooth without being too heavy.

Normally I order lamb brochette, salad and chips (£6.50). On this visit we opted for the specials, which surpassed our expectations. The shoulder of lamb with vegetables (£11.95) was succulent and aromatic. The bastella (£8.50) is a flaky pastry filled with chicken, eggs, toasted almonds and parsley, and dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. I'm not a pastry fan but I was converted on my first crunch. It was light and rich without being too filling and, unlike most bastellas, it was not oily.

Mr Amezghar is one those of rare proprietors who loves his food and has a stake in every dish. This is his livelihood and he has put his heart, soul and bank balance into it. There is a sense of jeopardy about his enterprise that lifts your whole dining experience. When food is as good and cheap as this, it is a cause for celebration.

Mogador
349 Portobello Road, W10 5AA