Meat, then meat and some more meat!

If you're a lover of smoky grilled meat, Rodizio Rico will come as a godsend, but it can be a rather puzzling experience for first-timers.

There's no menu and no prices - but no problem.

'Rodizio' means 'rotating', and refers to the carvers who wander about the room with huge skewers of freshly grilled meat from which they lop off chunks on demand.

You start by ordering and then help yourself from the salad bar and hot buffet.

As the carvers circulate they cut you chunks, slivers and slices from whichever skewer they are holding.

You eat as much as you like of whatever you like, and then pay the absurdly reasonable price.

When you're up helping yourself to the basics, look out for the tiny rolls, no bigger than a button mushroom, called p?o de queijo - a rich cheese bread from the south of Brazil.

Return to your seat and await the carvers - they come in random order, but they keep on coming.

There's lamb, and ham, and pork, and spareribs, and chicken, and silverside beef (called lagarto after a similarly shaped iguana).

Then for offal aficionados there are grilled chicken hearts.

But the star of the show is picanha - the heart of the rump, skewered and grilled in huge chunks.

Taste it and the arguments over the relative merits of rump and fillet are over forever.

Brazilians seem to revere the crispy bits, but if you want your meat rare you only have to ask.

Rodizio Rico
Westbourne Grove, London, W2 4UW