Meatballs, EC1 - review

It still has the sign Progressive Working Class Caterers embedded in the original frosted glass, a retro chequered floor and old fans whirring above.

The much loved Quality Chop House closed last summer, yet the name lives on in the mosaic floor outside the door.

In its place is the simply named Meatballs, started by Hugh Fowler of the Fire & Stone Pizza Co who has swapped the solid British fare for this fashionably cheap American staple.

The famously unforgiving seats remain, but the meal began well with our smiling waitress bringing jugs of tap water and garlic-fried nuts.

From the "Balls" section we chose pork and rosemary, and courgette to share with "Underneaths" of pearl barley risotto and egg papardelle, alongside a plate of three sliders: beef and ricotta, chicken and Greek lamb.

The pork balls were firm on the outside giving way to yielding meat flavoured with a touch of rosemary, rounded off with a Parmesan sauce. The earthy risotto was too filling for an accompaniment. The courgette balls - really just scrunched-up, fried courgettes - were excellent
and a nice match for the pasta which was slightly al dente and coated with a smooth Parmesan cream sauce.

We were less confident about the sliders: three lone balls overwhelmed by bouncy brioche buns and perched forlornly on plain china.

The indulgent lemon posset pudding was light and tangy, and arrived with a deliciously buttery shortbread biscuit. Aunt Joyce's egg custard had an unpleasant texture but a comforting, creamy taste.

But it was the coffee that made it.

A flat white made with a local St Ali roast was smooth, rich and warming.

Come for the pork balls and the excellent coffee and you won't be wasting your time.

Meatballs
92-94 Farringdon Road, EC1