Mele e Pere - review - Restaurants - Going Out

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At ground-floor entrance level the window display is of the eponymous fruits fashioned in Murano glass alongside an old-fashioned mangle spewing out paper pasta. Did chef and co-owner Andrea Mantovani, who has worked at Arbutus, Wild Honey and Les Deux Salons, come up with this convoluted notion for a name? I somehow doubt it.

Mantovani's northern Italian cooking embraces ingredients such as tripe, razor clams and rabbit that lift the heart (mine anyway) but so studenty are the bare tables and crap art in the vasty deep of the downstairs and so long the waits for food that their impact is severely diluted. The restaurant was not particularly busy so a shortage of hands in the kitchen has to be supposed.

Dishes we tried - the aforementioned plus snails with pecorino, spaghetti alla carbonara (oily), char-grilled lamb shoulder and an "Italian young leaf salad" featuring grated carrots and baby tomato with Little Gem - were serviceable but not joyful. What was worth a wait was the zabaglione.

The wine list divided by cutesy titles: "The Obvious to the Obscure; Gems from all Over the Boot", climbs too quickly upwards of £35. The copper-clad bar specialising in vermouths might be of interest, especially given accommodating opening hours and the reasonableness of the set lunch.

Mele e Pere
46 Brewer Street, W1