Mighty fine neighbourhood stalwart

The service is crisp, the food is good and the prices are fair.

The menu changes from session to session to reflect whatever the market has to offer, and there is a set lunch that offers a limited choice of three good courses throughout the week, and a set dinner with the option of matched wines.

The kitchen starts with the laudable premise that there is nothing better than what is in season, and goes on to combine Mediterranean inspirations with classic French and English dishes.

Thus you may find, in due season, starters such as carrot soup with risotto and dill; endive, beetroot and orange salad; or omelette fines herbes.

These are sophisticated dishes, and well-chosen combinations of flavours.

Main courses (depending on the season) might be mackerel roast to a crisp and served on a bed of potatoes and apples; a perfectly roast partridge; roast white asparagus with piment?n and pepper cream; or roast baby lamb with persillade.

The dessert section of the menu offers what some hold to be London's finest lemon tart and a selection of well-made ice creams.

There are also traditional favourites with a twist: Beaujolais pears with Financiers, or a hot bitter chocolate mousse.

Service is attentive and your meal will swing along in a jolly and businesslike fashion.

Kensington Place
Kensington Church Street, London, W8 7LX