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Moro is a loud and lively place whose decor betrays a respect for the values of the early pub restaurants. An open kitchen is vital, and the service is friendly and informal. The food is plain and genuine - brandade of cod may come with superb olives and piquillo peppers, and the sourdough bread is a good enough reason to visit on its own (hurrah for the wood-fired oven!). Look for the splendid sherries on offer. Insist on the Spanish cheeses. And, above all, enjoy yourself.

Moro
Exmouth Market, London, EC1R 4QE