No frills and small bills at this trad Spanish

From the outside it looks rather small and shabby - not very prepossessing at all, in fact, and much like the more tourist-focused trattorias.

But once through the door, tripping over the dessert trolley, you'll be greeted by a friendly maÎtre d' and led up the stairs to join a hubbub of hungry Soho folk with a nose for a bargain.

The menu does give a nod to the trattoria, with a short list of pastas, but it is the Spanish cooking that you should be here for.

From the tapas, mejillones a la plancha delivers a hefty portion of mussels; a tortilla Espa?ola is the size of a saucer; and ordering the jam?n serrano brings a decent portion at a price you'd be hard to match wholesale.

Chipirones, a plate of baby squid, and boquerones, the classic white anchovies, are good.

For something more substantial, there's plenty of choice, mostly in the form of simple grills.

Ordering chuletas de cordero a la brasa will bring lamb chops; higado de ternera, calf's liver and bacon; and rodaballo a la plancha, grilled turbot.

Or there are the traditional Valenciana and marinera paellas (for two), though these are slightly less exciting.

Service is swift, if a little harassed.

To enjoy Café Espa?a to the maximum, go mob-handed and allow yourself the luxury of running amok with the tapas selections before pouncing on the paella.

Be warned - the sangria is a dark and dangerous West End concoction, with only a nodding acquaintance to the Iberian drink of the same name.

Café España
63 Old Compton Street, W1D 6HT